According to the Avian Welfare Coalition, parrots and other exotic birds are the fourth-largest group of animals kept as pets, and they comprise the largest population of captive wildlife in the U.S. With these statistics, it’s not surprising that birds have become one of the fastest-growing groups of unwanted pets. . Unfortunately, few animal shelters have facilities to house parrots, and many shelters have to turn away unwanted birds. As a result, many parrots are euthanized because there is nowhere to place them.

Why do so many parrots end up in shelters or have to be euthanized? Certainly, there are many reasons. But here are perhaps the top five:

1. Parrots are purchased on a whim

Many people see playful parrots in pet store windows and think they just have to have them, without having any idea about what owning a parrot involves, or they mistakenly think that birds are less maintenance that a dog or cat because they don’t have to be walked and don’t take up that much space. Once they take the bird home and see that it’s very messy, potentially very loud, and needs a great deal of time outside the cage every day, they’re surprised. Not living up to owners’ expectations, many birds are then abandoned at shelters or worse, left to languish in their cages with little to no attention.

2. Parrot owners are uneducated about normal bird behavior

Wild birds scream to communicate. Flocks typically squawk loudest at dawn and dusk during feeding and while courting and nest building. Unfortunately, dawn and dusk are not ideal times to have pets screaming in our homes. Unfortunately, bird owners often inadvertently positively reinforce this screaming behavior by running to the screaming bird’s cage to reprimand it. The bird interprets the reprimand simply as attention from the owner; thus, it’s likely the bird will continue to scream to get more attention.

Screaming isn’t the only behavior many parrot owners don’t understand. Since birds don’t have hands with which to grasp, they normally use their beaks as appendages to help them climb around and as tools to help them eat. Often when a bird reaches out to a person with its beak, it isn’t to inflict damage but to help the bird move. Frequently, people misunderstand this behavior and think that the bird is being aggressive and is trying to bite them.

Finally, many people expect young birds to be as docile as many puppies are. In fact, parrots are extremely smart and independent and may not be as submissive as young dogs. So, if you want a compliant, obedient pet, get a dog and not a bird.

3. Parrot owners don’t recognize birds’ puberty and sexual frustration

Wild parrots are very social, living in flocks of hundreds to thousands. Many pet parrots, however, have had little to no contact with other birds and see their human caretakers as flock-mates. This relationship may work just fine until the parrot reaches sexual maturity (about 5-8 years of age for most medium to large-sized parrots) and then views its human flock-mate as a sexual partner. The bird may then become very protective of that individual, attacking other people in the house who interact with their love object, or may scream or pick at its feathers and skin out of sexual frustration. Because of these unwanted behaviors, sexual maturity is frequently the time that many parrots are given up to shelters.

4. Parrots owners are willing to purchase birds but not veterinary care

Many new bird owners never think about the expenses associated with owning a bird other than the cost of purchasing it. Most bird owners never consider the cost of preventative medical care for their birds and often are surprised when their pets get sick and require emergency veterinary treatment. If you’re considering a bird as a pet, think about whether you have the funds to cover medical care, especially if you’re thinking about adopting a larger parrot that might live for several decades.

5. Many bird owners don’t realize how long parrots can live!

Often, parrot owners don’t consider what will happen to their birds if their birds outlive them. Large parrots can live more than 50 years in captivity, and certain smaller species can live into their 30s. Unfortunately, many parents tire of their kid’s pet birds when the kids go off to college, and many senior citizens don’t know what to do with their birds when they become unable to care for them. Most bird owners’ relatives don’t want to be responsible for these pets when their family members pass away. All of these factors often result in pet parrots being dumped in shelters to live out their lives or be euthanized, if they aren’t adopted. So, if you’re considering a pet parrot, think long term.

What can we do with all these unwanted birds?

• First, owners seeking out pet birds can adopt, rather than purchase, new pets. Rescue facilities and shelters (not just pet stores and breeders) are great places to find great pet birds.
• Second, parrot owners can plan ahead for birds’ health care. All bird owners should set aside funds annually to cover veterinary care, especially emergency treatment, and should sign up for pet insurance to help cover costs.
• Third, parrot owners should remember to include their birds in their wills. We all plan for what will happen to our property should we die or become incapacitated. Why wouldn’t we plan for one of our most precious possessions – our beloved pets?
• Fourth, knowledgeable parrot owners can educate future bird owners about what it’s actually like to own a parrot – both the good and bad. The best bird owner is an educated one, and who better to learn from than other bird owners? People considering owning a particular species of bird should be sure to speak with owners of these species before they bring a bird home and get more than they bargained for.

Finally, people who don’t want to own a bird but who still want to help unwanted parrots can make a donation to a recognized parrot shelter or rescue organization to help care for these birds. For the right people in the right circumstances, parrots can make wonderful, loving pets. The key is to be educated about them first and to visit a shelter to rescue a bird in need. And, if you’re not ready to adopt a bird yourself, for adopt a rescued bird month, you can still help needy birds in shelters worldwide by making a donation. January 5^th is National Bird Day, and what better way to honor birds by either welcoming one into your home or donating to their care?

The post 5 Reasons Why Exotic Birds Are Given Up appeared first on NW Parrot Rescue.

1. Birds are not domesticated animals. Domestic animals are animals that have been bred for hundreds of years to live in the care of humans and are distinct from their wild ancestors. Birds commonly kept as pets are no different than their wild relatives – they are the native species of other countries.

2. Chlamydiosis (psittacosis) and avian tuberculosis can be transmitted through the air from birds to humans. These diseases can cause significant illness, especially for people with compromised immune systems. Birds also continually shed “feather dust” – particles of feathers, which may aggravate asthma in some people. Many homes with pet birds have HEPA-type air filters in rooms with birds to control allergies from bird dander.

3. Parrots, including lovebirds, parakeets, and cockatiels, are noisy and messy, and can be destructive. Vocalizing (squawking, chirping, talking) is an important part of any parrot’s social communication. Birds eat continually throughout the day, dropping and discarding bits of food everywhere. Birds are instinctively programmed to chew and shred wood, whether it is a perch, toy, picture frame, or furniture. Birds will also chew electrical cords, paper, and curtains.

4. All parrots have long life spans. Depending on species, they may live 20 to 50 years or more. Caring for a bird is often a life-long responsibility.

5. Parrots are extremely social animals, and have been compared to human toddlers in the needs of their emotional and social lives but, unlike children, they never grow up.

6. Birds are active and inquisitive and must be provided with ample room to move about and play. An indoor or sheltered outdoor aviary or a flight safe room (windows covered, no cats/dogs, no ceiling fans, etc.) that will allow the bird(s) to fly is good for exercise. Birds with clipped wings can get exercise by climbing, swinging, and flapping, if provided with ample space, toys, and climbing structures.

7. All birds need a varied diet, not just seeds or pellets, but grains, beans, fruits and vegetables too.

8. Light exposure and sleep are very important to birds. Birds need at least 4 hours exposure to UVA and UVB rays from sunlight or full-spectrum lighting to provide them with vitamin D, which promotes vitamin A absorption, critical for upper respiratory health. Birds must have a minimum of 10 hours of sleep each night.

9. Birds are very sensitive to air quality. Unlike humans, a bird replaces nearly all the air in its lungs with each breath. Because no residual air is left in the lungs during the ventilation cycle of birds, they transfer more oxygen and more pollutants during each breath. Birds should never be exposed to tobacco smoke, chemical fumes (hairspray, cleaners, etc.), or Teflon coated materials. Exposure to some toxic inhalants can cause immediate death; chronic exposure to other toxic can lead to premature death.

10. Birds need veterinary care from a veterinarian that specializes in birds. Proper vet care for birds can be expensive. Your vet will probably recommend a complete examination and diagnostic tests when you first acquire your bird; in addition, she/he will probably recommend annual well-bird examinations. Smaller birds require the same vet care and regular examinations.

This text was prepared by Monica Engebretson, Grassroots Coordinator, Animal Protection Institute. Please copy, distribute and utilize this document in its entirety for the benefit of all companion birds in your care.

The post 10 Things You Need to Know Before Adopting a Bird appeared first on NW Parrot Rescue.

Equipment: Coconut shell, keys or bell, white cotton rope or white cotton shoelaces without the tips.

To crack open the coconut follow the directions that may come with it. Some grocery stores will crack them open for you at no charge. Or you can buy coconuts that have already been halved. For an added treat, give your bird the shell with the meat still in the shell. But, do not leave the coconut in the cage for more than 12 hours because the meat will start to spoil. Remove any remaining meat from the shell after that period. Then clean and rinse it out thoroughly and it will continue to make a good toy.

Purchase a bell that is safe for birds. It should not be made out of lead or zinc. If you are in doubt, purchase a bell that is made specifically for birds. Make sure the bell is sturdy enough for big birds. Remove the clapper if there is any chance the bird could separate it and possible ingest it.

Another option is to substitute well cleaned keys for the bell. There are even some safe colored keys available. For smaller birds use hard plastic keys found in toy stores. You will also need some cotton rope or shoelaces, with the ends removed, so the bird does not break them off and eat them. These should be white, to avoid any possible toxic dye.

Punch or drill a hole into the top of the coconut shell. Securely tie the bell or the keys to one end of the shoelace or rope. Thread the other end of the shoelace or rope through the hole you made. Hang up the toy in the bird’s cage.

Charlie, an Amazon, loves this toy so much that he will not go to sleep at night unless he pulls it over to his swing with him.

Paper Roll Toy

Equipment: Empty paper towel roll (not a toilet paper roll as the glue used in toilet paper rolls may be toxic.)

This is the simplest toy yet! Giving your bird a discarded paper towel roll will give hours of enjoyment. Some brands use a glue to hold the paper onto the roll. Avoid these and toilet paper rolls not only because of the glue, but because of where it was. There might be too many germs on the roll for the bird. You can cut the paper towel roll in smaller sections for smaller birds.

The post Toys You Can Make appeared first on NW Parrot Rescue.

Most milled woods can be used providing they are not treated with any chemical. Pine, maple, and soft woods are great for toys. Woods such as cedar or teak contain toxins that are harmful to birds. For wooden beads, if they are colored, make sure they are non-toxic. These are usually dyed with food coloring.

Leather

If you provide leather toys you must know the source of the leather. Some leathers are tanned with arsenic. The leather used in bird toys is not tanned with arsenic, instead it is vegetable tanned and is safe for your birds. Bird toys that contain leather are safe and so are any dog toys that are leather. If you make your own toys, be positive you are using safe leather. Also with leather, care must be taken to keep it clean. It can be a breeding ground for bacteria.

Plastic/Acrylic

Plastic toys are great for smaller birds, but care must be taken with plastic given to larger birds. Marbella-type beads should be used provided they are the right size for the bird. Small plastic beads are easily snapped and can be ingested by large birds. Light weight plastic will be shattered into dangerous shards by big beaks. Other plastic toys to avoid with larger birds are toys meant for small birds such as budgies. This includes the weighted toys that rock back and forth when the bird pecks at them. These toys contain lead weights and la large bird can crack these toys open. Ingested lead is toxic to people and birds alike and can kill a bird.

Rope

Many birds love rope toys. For some birds rope toys meet their desire to shred. They make excellent preening toys. The bird will take apart the rope strand by strand. These rope toys can help prevent feather plucking by giving birds another object to preen other than themselves. Many of the rope toys are also easy to wash and can be put in the washing machine. Do not add fabric softener and use a mild soap and rinse thoroughly. Carefully check the ropes for strands that are loose. These strands can end up wrapped around legs or toes. Some birds can also pull these strands out and ingest them. This can cause crop impactions or even intestinal blockages. By checking the ropes often and by observing how your bird plays with them, these problems can be avoided. The best type of rope to use is 100% cotton or un-oiled sisal. Nylon or polyester rope fibers can wrap around toes so tightly that it is very difficult to unwrap. If this happens it can cut off the flow of blood to the toe or limb.

Other

Bird owners get creative in finding toys cheap enough to keep them from the poor house. Some use baby toys such as rattles and teething rings. Others provide toothbrushes and dog chains. These are relatively safe for smaller and medium size birds. Larger birds need heavier duty items. Any material that can be destroyed by a bird can be a danger. Toys must not have dangerous inside materials.

Toys that contain feathers are also a good item for feather pluckers to play with. Like the rope toys, it will give the bird an acceptable object to over-preen.

The materials that are used to hang the toy can also be dangerous to the bird. There is no product out on any market that is one hundred percent safe. There will always be the bird who will figure out a way to use it differently than how it was intended. But by checking the toys and their hangers often, problems can be avoided and you “trouble-maker” can enjoy plenty of safe playtime.

Some of the different ways to hang toys include O-rings, C-rings or quick-links, and various clasps. There are many different products available and each toy manufacturer has a preferred type.

O-rings

This is one of the most popular ways to hang toys. Many manufacturers use these key ring style hangers on their toys. Unfortunately birds can get toes, beaks, or tongues caught in them. They are easy for some birds to pull apart. Another style of O-ring is pulled apart to open up. While these are easy for the bird to open, they are a little safer.

C-rings

C-rings are much safer to use. They are easy for the bird to open and sometimes the bird will tighten them up so the owner cannot even open them. They are recommended for toys instead of the )-rings.

Clasps

Birds can be injured by this type of holder. Birds are curious and will work at the clasp. Sometime they will remove and ingest pieces of it. Their tongues, toes, and beaks can also become caught in them.

Chains

Many bird toys are hung by chains. When selecting a toy, make sure that the chain is also species appropriate. The chain should be large enough that a bird cannot get his toes or beak caught in it. Closed links versus open links are safer. When the wooden toy around an unsafe chain is destroyed, the chain should be removed and thrown away.
Rings

Many toys contain rings of various types. The rings should be completely closed and size appropriate for the bird. This is to prevent toes or beaks from becoming lodged in them.

Wire Hangers

Some toys use wire hangers or wire cables to hang toys. These can be dangerous to use. Wire coat hangers that were bent into shape to hold the toy material have caused many severe injuries to birds. More than one bird had the wire coat hanger puncture its beak.

Wire cables that are used to hang toys have also proven dangerous. They can wrap around and choke the bird, hanging them. Also, some cables are coated with a plastic that the bird could ingest.

Bells

Bells make great toys providing that they are the right type. Bells should not be the jingle bell type. Beaks, tongues, and toes can get caught, injuring the bird. For larger birds, the clappers should be removed from the bells because the bird might remove them itself, also causing problems.

Other Types

There are a wide range of other types of holders. Some are safer than others. Make sure there are no parts than can be removed. Check to see if the bird can get a toe, tongue, or beak caught in them.

The post Toy Safety appeared first on NW Parrot Rescue.

Most cages come equipped with 1 or 2 wooden dowels. While wooden dowels make excellent perches, they lack variation. Natural wood perches, however are what the bird would be using in the wild. They are not one dimension, varying instead from one point to the next. Most should be used with the bark still intact since this will allow the bird to strip the bark like they would in the wild. The other positive about natural wood is that there is more variation. Wood from one tree will vary in hardness from another species of tree. IApple tree perches are softer than mandrone.)

But what is safe and what is toxic? Most fruit trees are safe. The exception being cherry trees. These should be avoided since they are very toxic. However, those that support pitted fruit like peaches, should be used with extreme caution or avoided. The leaves, buds and bark need to be removed first. In addition, the wood needs to be thoroughly dried, since the sap (or green wood) is toxic. Wood from pitless fruits can be given with the bark on. Ideally, all wood should be dried and the leaves and buds removed. Wood from most nut producing trees are also safe to use.

Other Precautions To Take:

1. Never use branches from any tree that has been sprayed with any chemical, even chemicals that are supposed to be safe.
2. Branches must be cleaned. Use a good disinfectant, then thoroughly rinse and allow it to air dry. Do not wipe it off since this can spread germs.
3. Some trees have a high sap, pitch, or tar content. The sap from some trees can be poisonous although after the wood is dried it does not cause any problems. Branches should therefore be dried for several months before allowing the bird to use it. If you are unsure whether the sap, pitch, or tar can be toxic to your bird, do not use it.
4. Most branches are safe with the bark left on. Allow your bird to strip the branches. This is what a bird would be doing in the wild. It is not only enjoyable for your bird, but it is psychologically important to his well being. Encourage your bird to do so. Check with your avian veterinarian to make sure which barks are acceptable.
5. Check the branches for insects. Some insects can be poisonous when ingested by birds. Plus you don’t want them loose in your house either.
6. Branches should not have moss or anything else growing on them. This could harm your bird.
7. Squirrels, birds, and other animals live in trees. The branches of these trees may be contaminated with their excrement. Avoid these trees and find some that were not homes to other creatures.
8. Do not use branches that you pick up off the ground. They could be rotted, contain worms or other insects, or even chemicals.
9. Many people use driftwood for perches. If this is used make sure that it is not rotted, oily (due to oil spills or other nasty things) or slimy.
10. Branches may be placed in the oven at 400 degrees Fahrenheit for 10-15 minutes, depending on the size and thickness of the branches to speed up the drying process. Be aware that this will cause a urine-like odor.

Other types of perches to use include rope perches and therapeutic perches. Rope perches are excellent since the mimic the swaying of a branch. Some birds prefer this very much and seem to enjoy the rope perches to the wooden ones. Also excellent are therapeutic perches. They come in different styles as well. Some are rough to touch and others are smooth. Therapeutic perches, when properly fitted, work to keep a bird’s nails trimmed down naturally. The very rough ones should not be used as the main perch since they can cause sore spots. The smoother ones should be placed higher up the the other perches. Normally a bird’s favorite spot is the highest perch in the cage. By placing the therapeutic perch as the highest perch, it will be used more often, thus producing the desired effect of keeping the hails trimmed down. Plus, therapeutic perches come in many colors, one just right for your bird! (That fashion animal!)

The post Perches appeared first on NW Parrot Rescue.

1. Grating: Needs cleaning often, should not be used with birds that suffer from night fright due to possible injury. Keeps the bird from going down to play in the bedding material. May or may not work that way.
2. Newspaper: No shiny color print due to toxicity. Cheap, easy to clean, can turn white bird black if the bird likes to play with the paper. Bird may shred it and toss it. Very few cases of ingestion.
3. Corncob: Looks pretty, but needs to be cleaned daily. Wet areas must be removed due to mold growth. Easy to toss, but doesn’t always scatter when bird flaps its wings. Baby birds might ingest, causing crop impaction.
4. Crushed walnut shells: Can Have mold or pesticides. Might be ingested by baby birds, causing crop impaction. Looks pretty, but easy to scatter when bird flaps its wings. Also easy to toss.
5. Wood shavings PINE ONLY: Never use cedar or chlorophyll shavings. These can cause death!! Looks pretty as well, but easy to toss and when the bird flaps its wings it does scatter. Birds might also ingest, causing crop impaction.
6. Paper towels: Very absorbent, soft, easy to clean. Bird can shred or toss. Very few cases of ingestion.
7. Paper pellet bedding: Looks pretty, but bird may try eating. Ingestion cases reported. Hard for bird to scatter by flapping its wings, but he can still toss.
8. Grass pellet bedding: Looks pretty, but bird may try eating. Ingestion cases reported. Hard for bird to scatter by flapping its wings, but it can still toss. Can have mold or be contaminated with pesticides.
9. Computer paper: Easy to clean, but bird may shred and toss. Very few cases of ingestion.
10. Citrus rinds: Can be contaminated with pesticides or molds. Looks good and smells good, however. Bird can toss and it can scatter easily when the bird flaps its wings. Cases of crop impaction reported.
11. Paper pulp: Looks like lots of shredded paper. Manufacturer claims even if ingested it won’t cause crop impactions, but it is too new on the marked to know if this claim is true.
12. Nothing: The safest of all! However, thorough daily cleaning is a must. Bottom needs to be disinfected daily. Offers no soft footing or extra warmth for young or sick birds.

WARNING: NEVER USE SAND, GRAVEL, OR CAT LITTER! THESE WILL CAUSE CROP IMPACTION AND MAY KILL YOUR BIRD.

Cleaning The Cage

• How often should you clean the cage? The answer will vary depending on the level of cleanliness you want or need.
• If the cage is new and you suspect that it contains a zinc coating (toxic to birds) it must be wiped down first with a vinegar solution. This will help prevent toxicity.

Daily: Bottom of the cage should be changed. Fresh food and water (use alternate set of dishes and water bottles if you wish.)

Weekly: Daily routine plus wipe cage around with a good disinfectant, rinse with water after air drying unless directed otherwise. Perches scrapped of droppings or replaced. Toys need to be cleaned, replaced, or rotated as well.

Monthly: Daily routine plus weekly routine. Replace perches that cannot be cleaned. Everything in the cage needs to be thoroughly cleaned. Therapeutic perches cleaned and checked for usual wear. Inspect cage for any rust, loose joints, peeling paint, rough spots on bars or other troubles.

Bi-Annually: Twice a year (minimum) the cage – especially a large one – needs to be taken outside, scrubbed down, disinfected, and rinsed once again. Small cages can be done more often in the shower or the tub. Perches should be replaced with new ones. Toys need to be cleaned or replaced. Check the bars for rough spots. If the cage is painted or powder coated, check to see if the paint or coating is peeling or being removed.
Disinfecting

WARNING: When cleaning the cage with any disinfectant ALWAYS READ THE LABEL CAREFULLY AND FOLLOW ALL DIRECTIONS!

There are different levels of disinfecting. Low level disinfectants (kills some bacteria, fungus and viruses). Intermediate level disinfectants (kills some bacteria, fungus, viruses, and tuberculosis). High level (kills all living organisms).

Steps to follow when disinfecting:

1. Soak any area that does not wipe off easily.
2. Clean with soap and hot water to remove all dirt and debris.
3. Rinse thoroughly. This does not kill any bacteria, fungus, etc. Dirt, debris, and soap residue can cut down on the effectiveness of the disinfectant.
4. Use a scrub brush or a toothbrush on any hard to clean area. Make sure you get into all the nooks and crannies!
5. Once air dried, use the disinfectant of your choice, follow all the directions thoroughly. Air dry, outside if possible. Sunlight also disinfects.
6. Rinse with water to remove any residue. Let air dry before replacing bedding, perches, toys, dishes, food and especially the bird itself.

Types of disinfectants:

1. Alcohols: These kill some bacteria. Good on glass, countertops, etc. Also used as a skin disinfectant. Should be used full strength. Goes by names such as ethyl alcohol or ispropyl alcohol.
2. Chlorinates: Kill a wide range of bacteria and viruses. Does not kill tuberculosis, chlamydia (psittacosis), or bacterial spores. Does produce some fumes. Never use full strength, bust be diluted. Either 1:10 or 1:32. Ask your avian veterinarian which dilution he or she recommends. Goes by the name Chlorox®, or generic bleach.
3. Iodine: Kill yeast, fungus, some viruses, some bacteria such as E. coli, aspergillosis, salmonella, strep, staph, and pseudomonas. Does not kill polyomavirus or PBFD. Goes by the names Betadyne®, Vanodine®, and Providone®.
4. Ammonium or quats: Kill chlamydia, some bacteria, some viruses, fungus, aalmonella, pseudomonas, is ineffective against bacterial spores, E. Coli, yeast, tuberculosis, aspergillosis. Use diluted only. Usually 1:200 solution. Goes by the name Roccal-D®, Parvosol®.
5. Chlorohex: Kills yeast, gram-positive bacteria, fungi, some viruses, Newcastles, and aspergillosis. Needs to be diluted. Goes by the name Novasan® and Phisohex®.
6. Phenol: Kills fungi, tuberculosis, viruses, many bacteria, Salmonella, E. Coli, chlamydia, polyoma, reovirus, pseudomonas, and staph. Very toxic to cats and reptiles. Needs to be diluted. Goes by the names Lysol® and Environ®.
7. Gluteraldehyde: Kills all pathogens. Can be used full strength or diluted. Goes by the name Wavicide® and Sporocide®.8. Wood tar distillate: Kills some bacteria. Needs to be diluted. Very low level disinfectant. Goes by the name Pine-sol®.
8. Wood Tar Distillate: Kills some bacteria. Needs to be diluted. Very low level disinfectant. Goes by the name Pine-sol®

The post For The Cage appeared first on NW Parrot Rescue.

Ways to Bathe

There is no one single method of bathing a bird. Some birds prefer showers, others baths. However, under no circumstances should you ever take the bird into the bath tub with you! A bird may go into the shower with you provided it is not too hot or on full force.

Misting

A shower using a mine mist from a squirt bottle is a wonderful method to bathe your bird. Using warm water (though some prefer a cold to room temperature mist), gently mist your bird. If your bird is not too fond of this you may need to proceed slowly. There are some misting bottles that deliver such a fine mist that the bird may not object to it.

Showers

There are now many companies that manufacture shower perches designed to take your parrot into the shower with you. If you go this route, remember to make sure that the water is not too hot. Water that is too hot can scald your bird. Water that is on full force can injure your bird. Remember to use warm water, light force, and to keep the water below the bird’s face level. You don’t want water getting into its nares.

Sink or Tub Method

Another method is using a bath tub made just for birds or using the kitchen sink. Bird baths are usually sold for smaller birds such as budgies or cockatiels. However, you can use a foot bath tub for larger birds. Using warm water, fill just enough for the bird to bathe. Too deep and you risk drowning the bird. When the bird is done bathing, remove the tub.

The sink method is usually best for larger birds. Blocking off the drain, lay down a towel. This will prevent slipping. (Remember to make sure that the sink is clean first!) You can also allow a slow trickle of water to flow. Only add a small amount of water to the sink, for the same reason as you would the bird bath tub. (Some birds enjoy “bath toys”. Like floating hard plastic balls.

The Washcloth Method

Before some birds enjoy their baths, try using a warm, wet washcloth to bathe them. Gently rubbing the cloth on them, they will get wet and not even know it.

Lettuce

No, this is not a misprint, but another way to bathe your bird. Some birds who are totally resistant to bathing in the normal method can be tricked into bathing. By hanging wet lettuce or other greens in their cages, birds may decide to rub up against them. In the wild many birds will flutter against wet leaves to bathe.

Drying the Bird

Never let the bird go to bed wet. Some birds may enjoy you gently rubbing them dry with a towel. Our cockatoo loves getting soaked to the skin just so we will wrap her up in a towel and cuddle with her, just rub gently to dry. Other birds love the hair dryer. When using a hair dryer make sure that you set it on a cool, not a hot setting. Birds will also dry on their own if given enough time to do so before bed.

When to Bathe

Afternoon or early evening is the best time to bathe a bird. During the summer you may want to mist more often, especially if you don’t have air conditioning. In the winter, both in the early morning and late evening the temperatures are colder. Your bird may become to cold if bathed too early or too late. You can bathe your bird in the winter, but you may want to limit the baths to a few times a week instead of daily. Make sure they dry off in a warm room. In the summer you may want to bathe your bird daily.

Remember that you never add chemicals to your bird’s bath water unless instructed to do so by an avian veterinarian. Bathing too often may also dry out your bird’s skin. If this occurs, but down on the number of baths. Also talk to you avian veterinarian about this.

The post Grooming and Your Bird appeared first on NW Parrot Rescue.

There are numerous causes of feather loss in birds – the first step toward treatment is to determine the cause. Obvious physical clues give us a direction to pursue, not a diagnosis. Birds have a limited number of symptoms to tell us they are sick; these few symptoms represent a myriad of illnesses. Feather picking or feather loss is only one symptom. It is up the the avian veterinarian, with diagnostic tools, and the bird owner, with information on environment and history, to put together these clues to find a cause and/or remedy.

Viral Disease

Polyomavirus and psittacine beak and feather diseaseare serious diseases that may result in feather loss. Your veterinarian can make the appropriate tests to determine if the causative agent is viral. Research is ongoing in this field. Check with your avian veterinarian about vaccinations to prevent viral diseases affecting feather growth or loss in birds. Prevention is important, as once a bird contracts one of these viruses and feather damage becomes evident, the disease is almost always fatal.

Parasites

Knemidokoptes(scaly-face, scaly-leg) is a skin parasite often seen in pet birds. Budgerigars and canaries are most often affected. It is first noticed as a thickening of the tissues of the cere and/or legs. Even though the symptoms are visually apparent, the organism should be confirmed by microscopic examination before treatment is initiated. Remedies found in pet stores can in some cases, create additional feather problems and often take long periods of time to effect a cure.
Prescription drugs work rapidly and effectively.

Red mites, feather mites, or liceare also external parasites that infest birds, causing irritation. Feather problems are rarely the result of parasites, but if parasites are suspected, a veterinarian should confirm the diagnosis and can recommend treatment.

Giardia, a protozoan parasite, has been implicated in some cases of self-mutilation. This intestinal parasite can be identified by microscopic examination of fresh droppings, requiring that the sample be collected at the veterinarian’s office.

Bacterial – Fungal Disease

Staphylococcus or Pseudomonas are bacteria that may cause skin irritation resulting in feather loss due to self-mutilation. Your veterinarian can do a skin culture to identify these organisms. Aspergillus or Candidiasis are fungal diseases that may cause skin irritation, and require a dermatological workup including skin scraping or culture for identification.

Nutritional Causes

Dietary deficiencies can contribute to skin/feather disorders. Vitamin A deficiency has been implicated in nutritionally related feather disorders, and an extreme lack of nutritional protein may affect normal molt. Your avian veterinarian can advise you on modification or supplementation of your bird’s diet to prevent or correct these potential problems.

Behavioral Causes

Self-mutilation (feather plucking or skin tearing), can have primary or secondary behavioral causes. Birds in the wild would have a mate or flock with which to interact, but in captivity, human counterparts rarely fill the vacancy. Dominance factors, breeding frustration, boredom, territoriality, mate-bonding, and nesting drives, all triggered by hormonal development, are rarely satisfied in a pet environment. The perception of threat from other household pets may initiate stress if the bird is continually harassed. All of these factors can result in frustration-grooming, which often becomes obsessive, turning into a vice, causing self-mutilation and feather damage or removal. Your avian veterinarian may make recommendations on environmental changes or hormonal therapy.

Attack by Cage-Mates

If a cage-mate is suspected to be the cause of feather loss the victim-bird should be separated for a minimum of six weeks (to allow the feathers to re-grow) to make this determination. If only a part of the feather has been removed, it may not re-grow until the next natural molt. If cage-mate trauma is the cause, permanent separation may be the cure.

Other Possible Causes

External causes of skin irritation could be cage trauma, insect bites or stings, topical application of inappropriate ointments, or improper wing trim (permitting cut feather ends to touch the skin). Outside factors such as chronic exposure to inhaled irritants (cleaning products, tobacco smoke, or toxic substrates) can also result in feather-picking. Pet (cat, dog, rodent) attack may also result in feather loss.

Chronic diseases (liver, kidney, GI, respiratory, or atherosclerosis), can manifest themselves as both stress-related feather disorders or as self-mutilation. Feather cysts, tumors, and injury, are also possible stress-related causes of feather loss.

Dirty-Face Syndrome

If a bird suddenly seems to have a dirty face or broken or missing feathers around the beak and eyes, check to see if it can easily reach food or water and that the dishes are full. Birds trying to reach food-remains dropped out of reach below cage floors develop dirt faces or broken face feathers from trying to push their heads through soiled wire. If empty food containers do not appear to be a problem, the dirty face may be caused by regurgitation and your veterinarian should be consulted.

Prevention

Protection from airborne toxins or irritants, aggressive cage-mates, or other household pets is essential to the life and health of the pet bird.

An annual checkup may be the most effective way to protect your bird’s health. Birds tend to mask discomfort or illness, making it difficult to determine their general well being. A thorough health check may reveal internal disease, external parasites, or systemic diseases that can be identified and treated by your avian veterinarian before feather signs manifest themselves.

More Tips for Pet Bird Health – Things to Avoid

• Sandpaper perches
• Air pollutants, such as cigarette smoke, insecticides, and toxic
• Fumes from overheated nonstick cooking utensils or cleaning solutions
• Mite boxes or mite sprays
• Easily dismantled toys such as balsa wood, small link chain items, toys with easily detached metal clips or skewers, toys with lead weights
• Access to toxic house plants, ceiling fans, leaded glass (or any lead), cats, dogs, or young children
• Access to cage substrate

The post Feather Loss: Cause and Treatment appeared first on NW Parrot Rescue.

When a bird is injured, you will need to stop the bleeding before you take your bird to the avian veterinarian. Apply direct pressure to the wounded area and once you get the bleeding under control, then transport the bird to the veterinarian. Remember that the bird can bleed to death very rapidly.
Egg binding, seizures, concussions, protrusions from the vent, difficulty breathing, wheezing, broken bones, etc. need to be taken care of immediately. Get to the veterinarian ASAP!

It is always a good idea to have an emergency kit for your birds. Most of the items included here can be bought at any drug store. Some of the other items you may have to go to a medical supply store to obtain. Whenever you take a trip with your bird, make sure that you bring along a miniature version of the listed items.

Items in the Kit

• List of veterinarians and other emergency numbers
• Sterile syringes, no needles: to squirt liquid over injury or give avian veterinarian prescribed medication.
• Gauze sponges or pads: to clean the injured area.
• Bandaging materials (gauze or ace bandage that has lost most of its elasticity.
• Towels to restrain the bird or cover the cage.
• Rubbing alcohol (Isopropyl) & hydrogen peroxide: to clean an injured area or disinfect equipment.
• Clotting agent (styptic powder, flour or cornstarch) to stop bleeding.
• Cotton tipped applicators (Q-tips) to help clean the injured area.
• Hot water bottle, heating pad, or heat light: to keep the bird warm.
• Needle nosed pliers or hemostats: to pull blood feathers or hold things.
• Nail file: to file nails or beaks.
• Sterile saline solution: to help clean or wet an area to get a better look.
• Povidone iodine syrup and solution (Betadine): to help sterilize area or to be used to clean your hands.
• Penlight flashlight: to provide you with extra light so you can see what you are looking at.
• Tweezers, long and blunted are best: to help you remove material (i.e. seed caught in nares).
• Hand feeding formula or baby food: to give your bird some extra nutrition.
• Small scissors: to cut gauze or bandaging material.
• Apple juice (the best one to use), Pedialyte, diluted karo syrup: give to prevent dehydration.
• Paper, pen and pencils: to write down what you did and when.
• Wooden tongue depressors: to open your birds mouth, (not for use with larger birds).
• Tape. (masking) won’t stick to the feathers much: to hold bandages in place.
• Ziplock bags: to take samples to the vet such as fecals or ingested substances.
• K-Y Jelly (water based lubricant).
• Latex gloves: protects your hands against hazardous materials.
• Sick cage such as an aquarium tank or small cage: to keep a sick or injured bird warm and quiet.

NEVER apply oil anywhere on the bird!
NEVER give over the counter medicines without an avian veterinarian approval. They can mask the symptoms of an illness which may result in an erroneous diagnosis!
NEVER treat a bird yourself. This is something your avian veterinarian must do! Do not self-medicate a bird, ever!
NEVER use slaves, ointments, or creams if your bird gets burned. Use cool water instead.
NEVER give your bird medication meant for a human unless directed to do so by an avian veterinarian.

The post Putting a First Aid Kit Together appeared first on NW Parrot Rescue.

• Shivering on perch
• Swaying or falling
• Inability to perch
• Loss of use of a limb
• Laying on the bottom of the cage
• Convulsions
• Sitting with feet farther apart
• Drooping head
• Dazed
• Swelling with air ( looks puffed up like a balloon)
• Wings drooping
• Leaning to one side
• Sleepy appearance
• Loss of balance
• Fluffed up
• Head weaving (non-behavioral)
• Flicking of head
• Tail bobbing
• Signs of hypothermia that do not disappear
• Nares, Mouth, and Cere
• Discharge from nares
• Clogged nares
• Blocked nares
• Discharge from the mouth
• Sores in the soft tissue around beak
• Whitish bumps on the roof of the mouth
• Regurgitation (not caused because the bird is happy to see you.)

Respiratory

• Sneezing (not caused because the bird has learned to imitate you. Wet sneeze.
• Coughing (not caused because the bird has learned to imitate you.)
• Difficulty in breathing
• Rattling or clicking noise when breathing.
• Tail bobbing when breathing
• Rapid breathing
• Labored breathing
• Blocked air ways
• Thunking sound when stressed

Feather Changes

• Abnormal feathers (color, growth, etc.)
• Matted feathers around eyes, nares, mouth, or vent
• Dark blotches or lines in feathers
• Loss of feather sheen
• Feather plucking
• Decreased preening
• Deformed feathers
• Ruffled feathers (consistently)
• Bothering one spot
• Drab, dirty looking feathers
• Unusually heavy molt
• Missing feathers not due to plucking

Eyes

• Kicking or rubbin at eye area
• Eyes that have an opaque milky appearance
• Eyes that are dull and listless
• Tearing
• Discharge from eye
• Dull lifeless eyes
• Puffy, swollen or red eyes
• Eyes half closed when the bird is not sleeping, or napping

Behavior

• Decrease in activity
• Hyperactivity
• Sudden biting attacks
• Decrease in vocalizations
• Unusual fears
• Thrashing or night fright
• Abrupt changes in personality
• Moodiness/irritability
• Stops talking
• Sudden whimpiness
• Regression to baby behavior (weaning, almost weaning)

Droppings

• Diarrhea (not caused by extra fruit in the diet)
• Blood in any discharge
• Color changes in droppings (not diet related)
• Constipation or a decrease in number of droppings
• Soiled or pasted vent
• Smelly droppings
• Undigested seed or food in droppings
• Matted or stained feathers around vent
• Increased number of droppings
• Decreased number of droppings

Food and Water Consumption

• Not eating or drinking
• Water intake increase
• Water intake decrease
• Refusing favorite food
• Sudden increase in weight
• Loss of weight

Lumps, Bumps, Bruises, and Sores

• Swelling on face, eyes or cere
• Swelling on legs and feet
• Lumps on wings
• Lumps in chest or belly
• Lumps, other

Accidents

• Injuries (broken wing, head injuries, broken beaks, bruising, bleeding or swelling of an area)
• Bleeding
• Open sores or wounds
• Bone protruding
• Wing drooping or misaligned
• Cuts, scratches, abrasions
• Bruises
• Refusing to put weight on one foot

Crops

• Crop that does not empty
• Baggy over-stretched crop
• Air in the crop
• Slow emptying crop

Nails and Feet

• Overgrown nails and beaks that need care every few weeks
• Toes appear black (or not normal color
• Loss of use of leg
• Cannot Grip Perch
• Sores on feet
• Scaly, crusty appearing feet
• Overly sensitive feet
• Swelling feet

If your bird is displaying any of these symptoms, bring them into a veterinarian immediately! Never try to treat your bird yourself using “over-the-counter” medications. Your veterinarian is the only one who can make a diagnosis!

The post Signs of Illness and Injury appeared first on NW Parrot Rescue.